With so many fire extinguishers to choose from, selecting the proper one for your home can be a daunting task. Everyone should have at least one fire extinguisher at home, but it's just as important to ensure you have the proper type of fire extinguisher. Fire protection experts recommend one for the kitchen, the garage and workshop. Fire extinguishers are divided into five categories, based on different types of fires. Each fire extinguisher also has a numerical rating that serves as a guide for the amount of fire the extinguisher can handle. The higher the number, the more fire-fighting power. The following is a quick guide to help choose the right type of extinguisher.  Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (green triangle) Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (red square) Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive. Geometric symbol (blue circle) Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only. Geometric symbol (Yellow Decagon) Class K fire extinguishers are for fires that involve cooking oils, trans-fats, or fats in cooking appliances and are typically found in restaurant and cafeteria kitchens. Geometric symbol (black hexagon)

If used properly, space heaters can provide temporary relief during a cold spell, but they should not be considered a permanent solution to a home heating problem. They're too dangerous. To minimize the risk of fire while using a space heater, read and follow the manufacturer's operating instructions. Space Heater Safety Tips Buy a space heater that has been certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory. Keep all furniture and combustible items at least three feet away from any heating device. Never use space heaters to dry clothing, towels or other combustibles. Never refill a fuel-burning space heater while it's on or inside your house. Space heaters should not be left on while you are asleep or leave the room. When not in use, space heaters should be unplugged. Do not connect a space heater to an outlet with an extension cord, and never overload the circuit. Never use a space heater with a damaged or frayed cord, and never cover the cord with carpeting or furniture. Be sure your space heater is in good working condition and that the heating element is protected by a metal guard. Keep young children away from space heaters. Avoid using electric space heaters in a bathroom, and never touch an electric heater when you are wet. Make sure that your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors are working before using a space heater. Check the cord on an electric space heater to determine if it is very warm or hot. If so, unplug it immediately and try another outlet. If it continues to be hot, contact an electrician.

Heat can be very taxing on the body and can lead to heat related illnesses or make existing health conditions worse. Everyone can be vulnerable to heat, but some more so than others. The following groups are particularly vulnerable to heat; check in with friends and relatives who fall in one of these populations, especially if they don’t have air conditioning. Young children and infants are particularly vulnerable to heat-related illness and death, as their bodies are less able to adapt to heat than are adults. Older adults, particularly those who have pre-existing diseases, take certain medications, are living alone or have limited mobility who are exposed to extreme heat can experience multiple adverse effects. People with chronic medical conditions are more likely to have a serious health problem during a heat wave than healthy people. Pregnant women are also at higher risk. Extreme heat events have been associated with adverse birth outcomes such as low birth weight, preterm birth, and infant mortality, as well as congenital cataracts. It is never safe to leave a child, disabled person or pet locked in a car, even in the winter. If you have a toddler in your household, lock your cars, even in your own driveway.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America. Carbon monoxide detectors are available, but you need to understand how they work and what their limitations are in order to decide whether or not you need a detector and, if you purchase a detector, how to use it to get the best protection. What is Carbon Monoxide? Carbon monoxide is an odorless, tasteless, invisible gas. Each carbon monoxide molecule is composed of a single carbon atom bonded to a single oxygen atom. Carbon monoxide results from the incomplete combustion of fossil fuels, such as wood, kerosene, gasoline, charcoal, propane, natural gas, and oil. Where is Carbon Monoxide Found? Carbon monoxide is present in low levels in the air. In the home, it is formed from incomplete combustion from any flame-fueled (i.e., not electric) device, including ranges, ovens, clothes dryers, furnaces, fireplaces, grills, space heaters, vehicles, and water heaters. Furnaces and water heaters may be sources of carbon monoxide, but if they are vented properly the carbon monoxide will escape to the outside. Open flames, such as from ovens and ranges, are the most common source of carbon monoxide. Vehicles are the most common cause of carbon monoxide poisoning. How Do Carbon Monoxide Detectors Work? Carbon monoxide detectors trigger an alarm based on an accumulation of carbon monoxide over time. Detectors may be based on a chemical reaction causing a color change, an electrochemical reaction that produces current to trigger an alarm or a semiconductor sensor that changes its electrical resistance in the presence of CO. Most carbon monoxide detectors require a continuous power supply, so if the power cuts off then the alarm becomes ineffective. Models are available that offer back-up battery power. Carbon monoxide can harm you if you are exposed to high levels of carbon monoxide in a short period of time, or to lower levels of carbon monoxide over a long period of time, so there are different types of detectors depending on how the level of carbon monoxide is measured. Why is Carbon Monoxide Dangerous? When carbon monoxide is inhaled, it passes from the lungs into the hemoglobin molecules of red blood cells. Carbon monoxide binds to hemoglobin at the same site as and preferentially to oxygen, forming carboxyhemoglobin. Carboxyhemoglobin interferes with the oxygen transport and gas exchange abilities of red blood cells. The result is that the body becomes oxygen-starved, which can result in tissue damage and death. Low levels of carbon monoxide poisoning cause symptoms similar to those of the flu or a cold, including shortness of breath on mild exertion, mild headaches, and nausea. Higher levels of poisoning lead to dizziness, mental confusion, severe headaches, nausea, and fainting on mild exertion. Ultimately, carbon monoxide poisoning can result in unconsciousness, permanent brain damage, and death. Carbon monoxide detectors are set to sound an alarm before the exposure to carbon monoxide would present a hazard to a healthy adult. Babies, children, pregnant women, people with circulatory or respiratory ailments, and the elderly are more sensitive to carbon monoxide than healthy adults. Where Should I Place a Carbon Monoxide Detector? Because carbon monoxide is slightly lighter than air and also because it may be found with warm, rising air, detectors should be placed on a wall about 5 feet above the floor. The detector may be placed on the ceiling. Do not place the detector right next to or over a fireplace or flame-producing appliance. Keep the detector out of the way of pets and children. Each floor needs a separate detector. If you are getting a single carbon monoxide detector, place it near the sleeping area and make certain the alarm is loud enough to wake you up. What Do I Do if the Alarm Sounds? Don't ignore the alarm! It is intended to go off before you are experiencing symptoms. Silence the alarm, get all members of the household to fresh air, and ask whether anyone is experiencing any of the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. If anyone is experiencing symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning, call 911. If no one has symptoms, ventilate the building, identify and remedy the source of the carbon monoxide before returning inside, and have appliances or chimneys checked by a professional as soon as possible.

More than one-third of Americans use fireplaces, wood stoves and other fuel-fired appliances as primary heat sources in their homes. All home heating systems require regular maintenance to function safely and efficiently. - Never use flammable liquids to start a fire. Use only seasoned hardwood. Soft, moist wood accelerates creosote buildup. - Build small fires that burn completely and produce less smoke. - Keep Fireplaces and Wood Stoves Clean - Have your chimney or wood stove inspected and cleaned annually by a certified chimney specialist. - Clear the area around the hearth of debris, decorations and flammable materials. - Always use a metal mesh screen with fireplaces. Leave glass doors open while burning a fire. - Install stovepipe thermometers to help monitor flue temperatures. - Keep air inlets on wood stoves open, and never restrict air supply to fireplaces. Otherwise you may cause creosote buildup that could lead to a chimney fire. - Use fire-resistant materials on walls around wood stoves. - Never burn cardboard boxes, trash or debris in your fireplace or wood stove. - When building a fire, place logs at the rear of the fireplace on an adequate supporting grate. - Never leave a fire in the fireplace unattended. Extinguish the fire before going to bed or leaving the house. - Soak hot ashes in water and place them in a metal container outside your home.

Learn the safest route from your home or business to high, safe ground in case you have to leave in a hurry. Develop and practice a 'family escape' plan and identify a meeting place if family members become separated. Make an itemized list of all valuables including furnishings, clothing and other personal property. Keep the list in a safe place. Stockpile emergency supplies of canned food, medicine and first aid supplies and drinking water. Store drinking water in clean, closed containers. Plan what to do with your pets. Have a portable radio, flashlights, extra batteries and emergency cooking equipment available. Keep your automobile fueled. If electric power is cut off, gasoline stations may not be able to pump fuel for several days. Have a small disaster supply kit in the trunk of your car. Find out how many feet your property is above and below possible flood levels. When predicted flood levels are broadcast, you can determine if you may be flooded. Keep materials like sandbags, plywood, plastic sheeting and lumber handy for emergency water-proofing. For the exterior areas of your property, consider taking the following actions: Maintain proper water runoff and drainage. Routinely clean and maintain gutters, downspouts, and splash pads so that rainwater from your roof flows easily away from your home. Also, make sure that any nearby drainage ditches or storm drains are clear of debris and functioning properly. Improve lot grading. Determine how water flows or accumulates around your home to identify potential trouble spots (often easy to see during an average rainstorm). Elevate utilities and service equipment. Raise and anchor air conditioning condensers, heat pumps, water meters and other service equipment onto pedestals or platforms that are at least 1 foot above the potential flood elevation. Anchor outdoor fuel tanks. Attach outdoor fuel tanks to a large concrete slab that weighs enough to resist the force of floodwaters, or install inexpensive ground anchors that are connected across the top of the tank with metal straps. For interior areas below the potential flood elevation, consider making the following alterations: Protect your valuable possessions. Move important documents and other valuable or sentimental items to a safer location, well above the potential flood elevation and/or inside watertight containers. Seal your foundation and basement walls. Close any foundation cracks with mortar and masonry caulk or hydraulic cement, which expands and fills gaps completely. Install flood vents. Flood vents are small permanent openings that allow floodwater to flow freely through an enclosure such as a crawlspace or garage. Install a sump pump. Sump pumps, which pump groundwater away from your home, can be an excellent defense against basement seepage and flooding. Prevent sewer backups by Installing drain plugs for all basement floor drains. Use flood-resistant building materials. Raise electrical system components. Protect utilities and service equipment. Move the main parts of your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems to a higher floor or the attic. Anchor indoor fuel tanks. Anchor fuel tanks by attaching them to a large concrete slab that weighs enough to resist the force of floodwaters. Install a flood alert system. Safeguard important paperwork and move furniture, rugs, electronics, and other valuable belongings to upper floors, or at least off the floor of the ground level.